I hadn't really thought beyond the point of finding the house of a cousin I had never met, the details of which had been recorded in my mums address book, untouched for the past 16 years. However, in her travel diary, which I read last year documenting her trip to, among other places, Singapore and Australia with her friend Moy, mum had written with such affection for her visit to this branch of the family I had to at least try to make contact.
When the man answered the door, I asked him to confirm the address I had written down, which he did. I then asked him if he was Paul E and he replied yes. I was surprised. I was expecting him to say no or at least challenge me as to why I wanted this information which is what I would have done, but he was calm, softly spoken and v polite. So I told him who I was and that I was his cousin. He took the news quite well possibly because he had seen how nicely groomed I was! I had even put a frock on. I gave Mr L the thumbs up and he pulled the Hippee Camper up onto the drive.
We spent the next few hours drinking tea and catching up and as we talked I studied his features, looking for a family resemblance and was pleased to see glimpses of both my brothers in his face.
Later, Paul took us out for a drive around the area and to the beaches he loves. He showed us where he (still) surfs and it was clear why he still lives in the same place after all these years - it's lovely. Then, he took us to the lake where my aunt and uncle’s ashes were scattered when they passed away - a place where they regularly fished and both loved. It was such a peaceful spot. He recounted his happy memories of mum and Moy’s visit and how much fun they were & we shared stories of when his mum and dad visited us in England. In the evening we met his lovely children and he cooked us delicious steaks and insisted we stayed the night.
The following morning we said our goodbyes and exchanged details & promises of keeping in contact with a branch of the family I had known for less than 24 hours but who had been so generous and welcoming. It was quite heartwarming
We headed back to the campsite to check out and collect the belongings we had left behind. Sadly the blue skies had gone and the sky was grey & full of rain. As we began to drive out of the site we somehow got caught up in a procession of vintage vehicles , when all the hot rod cars were leaving, heading to a rally in a nearby town. A small crowd of locals had gathered at the entrance to the campsite to admire the 50+ hot rods however they weren't expecting the Hippee Camper that was sandwiched in between and so as we left the park there were peels of laughter and we got a huge cheer.
We were on the final leg of of our Hippee Camper trip heading down the M1 to a campsite on the edge of Sydney to spend our last night in the van and get it scrubbed and ready to be returned. As if to remind us of the joys of Camper van living, the rain fell out of the sky making our last night a sleepless one. With over 4000 kilometres behind us and just 24 km ahead, we were excited to be hitting the big city at last and were looking forward to sleeping in a proper bed that had been so generously offered by an old school friend M & his wife E.
Sunday, 26 February 2017
Saturday, 25 February 2017
Someone's knocking at the door, somebody's ringing the bell...
After 9 days of travelling inland we were heading back to the coast and the sky was a beautiful blue as if to confirm this was a good decision. First stop Port Macquire or Port as it's known – where we parked up & strolled along the seafront, lined with rocks people have decorated with messages, memories and memorials, but it we needed to get on. We drove along Ocean Drive, stopping along the way to admire the beaches and the views before we found a campsite in a small town called Harrington. The site had great reviews & great facilities but as we got out of the van I was stopped in my tracks. A HUGE lizard (goanna) about 4 feet long head to toe. It saw us & sauntered off. I told the lady on reception and her response was not what I wanted to hear. “Yes” laughing loudly “we have lots of those…and snakes”! Why would you say that? To me of all people. I hesitated. Could I stay here with these prehistoric monsters roaming freely? We were hungry & in need of a rest so we stayed, but I was on high alert. Thankfully there was only 2 other sightings which, Mr L assured me was the same lizard just moving around. We had a lovely afternoon walking along a vast expanse of pure white sand to the ocean just at the back of the campsite &, after Bob & Glynis 2 Aussie grey nomads as they call them here, camped next to us, showed us around there tent/truck set up we were tucked up in bed by 9pm. Life on the edge.
The following morning we continued heading down towards Sydney &, whilst looking on our campsite apps for suitable sites we found one in Booti Booti National Park – we had to stay there! As we checked in I asked if they had any Lizards & the response was “not really”. Liar!! Within 30 minutes we had seen 6 – 2 of which strolled off together and walked into the ladies toilet/shower block & another came out of the woods not far from where I was sorting lunch. It was too much for me – I went off in search of a new camping spot. When I returned to the van Mr L was inside with the sliding door open & a v large lizard was right by the door. As Mr L leaned out to talk to it (he likes them!) it strolled under the van. We moved immediately to another spot with no shade but a long way from lizard forest!
Rather predictably, after lunch we walked along the beach at the back of the site for miles then sat among the dunes and watched the waves & lay in the sunshine. We spent the evening with a Dutch couple camped near us, talking & admiring the hills & views around us.Up the next morning I showered with one eye on the bottom of the door, just in case the lizards decided to pay a visit (they didn't) then we were back in the Camper continuing south.
Our final destination in the van was a Sydney but on the way there I wanted to go to a small town call Noraville. Why? Two reasons; 1.my mum & her friend Moy went there to see my dad's sister & 2. I may still have relatives there. We found a lovely campsite, completely lizard free, where our pitch was under the shade of two trees with a beautiful lake behind us so we could, and did, watch the stunning sunset reflecting shades of purple & blue over the water. Perfect. We also discovered that our visit to the campsite coincided with the hot rod enthusiasts annual meet so the park was full of incredible cars . We spent the afternoon washing and grooming. Mr L trimmed his beard & I tackled my hair. It was so unruly I had finally purchased a travel hairdryer that morning and ( my hairdresser will go mad if she reads this) Mr L trimmed my hair with some nail scissors. It had to be done. We had to look in someway presentable.
So the following day, armed with information from my mums old address book we went in search of a cousin I had never met. I wasn't really sure if this was a good idea. I could have tried the phone number but decided to take the full on approach. We found the address and Mr L parked up whilst I walked up the driveway, climbed the stairs to the first floor veranda that led me to the porch door, I rang the bell and waited. A moment later a man appeared.
The following morning we continued heading down towards Sydney &, whilst looking on our campsite apps for suitable sites we found one in Booti Booti National Park – we had to stay there! As we checked in I asked if they had any Lizards & the response was “not really”. Liar!! Within 30 minutes we had seen 6 – 2 of which strolled off together and walked into the ladies toilet/shower block & another came out of the woods not far from where I was sorting lunch. It was too much for me – I went off in search of a new camping spot. When I returned to the van Mr L was inside with the sliding door open & a v large lizard was right by the door. As Mr L leaned out to talk to it (he likes them!) it strolled under the van. We moved immediately to another spot with no shade but a long way from lizard forest!
Rather predictably, after lunch we walked along the beach at the back of the site for miles then sat among the dunes and watched the waves & lay in the sunshine. We spent the evening with a Dutch couple camped near us, talking & admiring the hills & views around us.Up the next morning I showered with one eye on the bottom of the door, just in case the lizards decided to pay a visit (they didn't) then we were back in the Camper continuing south.
Our final destination in the van was a Sydney but on the way there I wanted to go to a small town call Noraville. Why? Two reasons; 1.my mum & her friend Moy went there to see my dad's sister & 2. I may still have relatives there. We found a lovely campsite, completely lizard free, where our pitch was under the shade of two trees with a beautiful lake behind us so we could, and did, watch the stunning sunset reflecting shades of purple & blue over the water. Perfect. We also discovered that our visit to the campsite coincided with the hot rod enthusiasts annual meet so the park was full of incredible cars . We spent the afternoon washing and grooming. Mr L trimmed his beard & I tackled my hair. It was so unruly I had finally purchased a travel hairdryer that morning and ( my hairdresser will go mad if she reads this) Mr L trimmed my hair with some nail scissors. It had to be done. We had to look in someway presentable.
So the following day, armed with information from my mums old address book we went in search of a cousin I had never met. I wasn't really sure if this was a good idea. I could have tried the phone number but decided to take the full on approach. We found the address and Mr L parked up whilst I walked up the driveway, climbed the stairs to the first floor veranda that led me to the porch door, I rang the bell and waited. A moment later a man appeared.
Wednesday, 22 February 2017
Red light spells danger
The following day we said goodbye to Glen Innes – a town that was way too exciting for us, & headed to Armidale, a sedate, demur city ( city because it has not 1 but 2 cathedrals) & clearly a place for the ‘well to do’. We weren't really sure where to go from here & the lady in the tourist information didn't help us resolve that. However a chance encounter with a man in the car park outside gave us some great ideas locally & further afield. Good timing as the rain had just arrived. We set off along Waterfall Way where we kept ahead of the rain for most of the 40km but the dark sky made the landscape look quite sinister. Much of the road was windy & uphill but there was v little traffic so we ambled along. We turned off the highway into the New England National Park & followed a gravel road for another 10k or so up to the top. Mr L was sceptical about the promised views as it did not feel as if we had climbed that high. How wrong he was. There before laid out before us were hills and mountain ranges with an approx 160 degree panoramic view. Much of them were coated in a layer of cloud but still visible. It was stunning, but v windy & the rain was definitely about to arrive. We drove back down about 3k to the campsite which was in a heavily wooded area with only 1 other couple camping there. We quickly fashioned an awning off the side of the van just as the rain arrived & cooked dinner, which we ate with one of us holding onto the tarpaulin & the other draining the big pools of water that were gathering in it. By 7pm we were sat in the van stuffing tissues into a gap to stop the drips that were getting in through the sliding door. Who doesn't love camping?!
The following morning, after a freezing cold night, we went back up to the lookout point – which, for those interested, is at an altitude of 1563m - & the view was incredible . The morning sky was clear and blue & it looked like you could see forever. It was so peaceful & still and there was just us there to see it. These special moments make you forget the rain & cold. A few kilometres on we spotted a sign for Wollomombi falls – only 3 km off the highway so we took the detour. No real expectations so we were stunned by the sight of a massive Gorge where the land looked like it had been ripped apart leaving this gaping wound, with water pouring off the edge. This place is full of surprises and many are barely mentioned on the map.
We headed back towards Armidale then onto the Oxley Highway to Walcha, where we needed to decide which road to take - inland or back towards the coast. We opted for the Oxley Highway towards the coast where we spotted another signpost which directed us to Apsley Falls and yet more stunning views which we shared just with each other.
A few km further on, with hardly any other traffic & no town for about 80km, I noticed the red engine light had come on. I stopped immediately and had flash backs of my childhood where something similar seemed to happen to dad’s car regularly & it was never good news. Don't let us down now Hippee Camper. I'm sorry we haven't given you a pet name or that we have been quick to deny we were hippies when asked on numerous occasions by people. Just be alright. Mr L checked things under the engine located under the passenger seat. There was nothing to prop the seat up with so Mr L used the bit of tree we have been carrying around in the van for such a task. All seemed ok. After several attempts I got through to the helpline. I explained the situation, provided details as requested. When I told him it was a Hippee Camper his response changed “ oh, don't worry about that old thing it's probably a faulty light or something. Just keep driving and if it stops give us a call”. Ok. So, with considerable trepidation I drove, slowly, willing it to keep going. I kept looking for good places to pull over if we did breakdown. Then the road started to weave and bend and twist and turn for miles and miles as we came down from the plateau, all I could think about was what if we breakdown here! . The red light stayed on but still the van kept going. Nearly 3 hrs later we reached our stop for the night in a town called Wauchop. As I pulled onto the site and straightened up the red light went out. All was well. For the van that is. I was exhausted!
The following morning, after a freezing cold night, we went back up to the lookout point – which, for those interested, is at an altitude of 1563m - & the view was incredible . The morning sky was clear and blue & it looked like you could see forever. It was so peaceful & still and there was just us there to see it. These special moments make you forget the rain & cold. A few kilometres on we spotted a sign for Wollomombi falls – only 3 km off the highway so we took the detour. No real expectations so we were stunned by the sight of a massive Gorge where the land looked like it had been ripped apart leaving this gaping wound, with water pouring off the edge. This place is full of surprises and many are barely mentioned on the map.
We headed back towards Armidale then onto the Oxley Highway to Walcha, where we needed to decide which road to take - inland or back towards the coast. We opted for the Oxley Highway towards the coast where we spotted another signpost which directed us to Apsley Falls and yet more stunning views which we shared just with each other.
A few km further on, with hardly any other traffic & no town for about 80km, I noticed the red engine light had come on. I stopped immediately and had flash backs of my childhood where something similar seemed to happen to dad’s car regularly & it was never good news. Don't let us down now Hippee Camper. I'm sorry we haven't given you a pet name or that we have been quick to deny we were hippies when asked on numerous occasions by people. Just be alright. Mr L checked things under the engine located under the passenger seat. There was nothing to prop the seat up with so Mr L used the bit of tree we have been carrying around in the van for such a task. All seemed ok. After several attempts I got through to the helpline. I explained the situation, provided details as requested. When I told him it was a Hippee Camper his response changed “ oh, don't worry about that old thing it's probably a faulty light or something. Just keep driving and if it stops give us a call”. Ok. So, with considerable trepidation I drove, slowly, willing it to keep going. I kept looking for good places to pull over if we did breakdown. Then the road started to weave and bend and twist and turn for miles and miles as we came down from the plateau, all I could think about was what if we breakdown here! . The red light stayed on but still the van kept going. Nearly 3 hrs later we reached our stop for the night in a town called Wauchop. As I pulled onto the site and straightened up the red light went out. All was well. For the van that is. I was exhausted!
Monday, 20 February 2017
Saturday nights alright for fighting
Once we had negotiated the labyrinth of road tunnels that go under Brisbane, we were on the New England highway heading inland, well away from the coast road, surrounded by beautiful rolling hills, with views willingly offered up by the Great Dividing Range. Even the sky seemed to have grown. It felt like we had begun a new road trip. Our first stop was Warwick – as always we were reliant on the tourist information centre to provide us with answers & we weren't disappointed. We walked around the town which, like many we have visited still retains the original hotels & shop fronts from when the town was built. It was quite busy but felt very ‘local’. This was confirmed when I overheard an elderly man saying “I don't know where all these people have come from but they aren't Warwick!”.
We were heading to a national park but it had been a busy few days so we decided to stop off at a campsite along the way and recharge ourselves so we could do some hiking when we got there. It was the worst campsite we had been on. Not because all the backpackers who were staying there whilst fruit picking at nearby farms, but because it was dirty & neglected. They had their own water source that was the worst colour I have ever seen. Our friends B&J, who live in deepest Yorkshire, & whose water comes from a stream, is like pure spring water compared to this. It was dark brown. I had no intention of putting any of my parts in that. Thankfully the Girraween National Park was a complete contrast in a beautiful & tranquil setting on a site that was barely half full & clean refreshing hot showers (for 4 minutes) A real bonus was the visitors centre had free wifi 24/7. I didn't want to leave!
All across this vast area there are huge rocks, some randomly balancing on others to create ‘castles’ or ‘pyramids’. We followed one of the small 2-3k trails when we got there & the following day we did a much longer hike up into the hills with great views. We pretty much had the place to ourselves up there which was lovely. In the evening more than a dozen kangaroos appeared to feed on the grass near to our camper van which was so nice to watch. On the second night we were invited to join some ex pat campers & their friends for drinks. It was a pleasant relaxing evening sharing stories & drinking wine until the arrival of the rain sent everyone off to their beds.
Back on the road the next day I was struggling to pick up a radio station until we hit a small town called Tenterfield, where the local radio DJ, an elderly lady by the sound of her voice told of a very sad tragedy in the town where 3 people from the same family had died cleaning out a storage tank. She was so emotional about it - & then in the same breath announced the next song – “here's Elton John singing Saturday nights alright for fighting” !!!
We arrived in Glen Innes – a town famous for its Celtic standing stones – described to us as Australia’s equivalent of Stonehenge. No. It most definitely was not, but it was a nice park with some nice stone sculptures. Our campsite was just a few minutes from downtown so got showered ,’dolled up’ & headed into town. First stop the RSL services club – Similar to the British Legion. We got signed in & were delighted that drinks were ‘club’ prices - $7 for a schooner of beer & mini bottle of fizz.
It was an entertaining evening where 4 interesting things happened: 1. we ran into the governor of New South Wales, 2. we witnessed our first bar room brawl, 3.we were rescued from a huge downpour by a kind bus driver & 4. one of our camping chairs went missing. This may not sound that exciting to you but we haven't been out on a Saturday night for some time so it was quite a treat for us. I'm guessing you might want more details so in summary the governor and his wife were attending a reception at the RSL club, the main perpetrator of the fight got a three month ban from the bar, the bus driver went off his route to drop us at the campsite to save us getting wet and the camping chair turned up safe & well the following day.
We were heading to a national park but it had been a busy few days so we decided to stop off at a campsite along the way and recharge ourselves so we could do some hiking when we got there. It was the worst campsite we had been on. Not because all the backpackers who were staying there whilst fruit picking at nearby farms, but because it was dirty & neglected. They had their own water source that was the worst colour I have ever seen. Our friends B&J, who live in deepest Yorkshire, & whose water comes from a stream, is like pure spring water compared to this. It was dark brown. I had no intention of putting any of my parts in that. Thankfully the Girraween National Park was a complete contrast in a beautiful & tranquil setting on a site that was barely half full & clean refreshing hot showers (for 4 minutes) A real bonus was the visitors centre had free wifi 24/7. I didn't want to leave!
All across this vast area there are huge rocks, some randomly balancing on others to create ‘castles’ or ‘pyramids’. We followed one of the small 2-3k trails when we got there & the following day we did a much longer hike up into the hills with great views. We pretty much had the place to ourselves up there which was lovely. In the evening more than a dozen kangaroos appeared to feed on the grass near to our camper van which was so nice to watch. On the second night we were invited to join some ex pat campers & their friends for drinks. It was a pleasant relaxing evening sharing stories & drinking wine until the arrival of the rain sent everyone off to their beds.
Back on the road the next day I was struggling to pick up a radio station until we hit a small town called Tenterfield, where the local radio DJ, an elderly lady by the sound of her voice told of a very sad tragedy in the town where 3 people from the same family had died cleaning out a storage tank. She was so emotional about it - & then in the same breath announced the next song – “here's Elton John singing Saturday nights alright for fighting” !!!
We arrived in Glen Innes – a town famous for its Celtic standing stones – described to us as Australia’s equivalent of Stonehenge. No. It most definitely was not, but it was a nice park with some nice stone sculptures. Our campsite was just a few minutes from downtown so got showered ,’dolled up’ & headed into town. First stop the RSL services club – Similar to the British Legion. We got signed in & were delighted that drinks were ‘club’ prices - $7 for a schooner of beer & mini bottle of fizz.
It was an entertaining evening where 4 interesting things happened: 1. we ran into the governor of New South Wales, 2. we witnessed our first bar room brawl, 3.we were rescued from a huge downpour by a kind bus driver & 4. one of our camping chairs went missing. This may not sound that exciting to you but we haven't been out on a Saturday night for some time so it was quite a treat for us. I'm guessing you might want more details so in summary the governor and his wife were attending a reception at the RSL club, the main perpetrator of the fight got a three month ban from the bar, the bus driver went off his route to drop us at the campsite to save us getting wet and the camping chair turned up safe & well the following day.
Friday, 17 February 2017
If you're fond of sand dunes & salty air....
A number of people had told us we must visit Fraser Island so when we arrived in Hervey Bay, we booked a trip not actually knowing what was there or why we must see it. We drove to the meeting point early & were picked up in a 17-seater 4X4 bus by our driver & guide Hans – German born obviously- he had been an Aussie for 25yrs which had created the oddest hybrid accent. There were only 8 of us on the day trip, 2 young Germans & 4 Swiss. We drove to the ferry port & after a 55min crossing we were on the Island. The first thing we discovered about the Island is that it's a huge sand dune. In fact it's the largest sand island in the world. The initial 250 meters of road were tarmac & after that it was a well used & well worn track of deep compacted soft sand, wide enough for one vehicle, which weaved up and down the island through the woodland & rain forest, so the 4X4 was essential. The ride was something people would pay good money to experience at a theme park. Getting traction even for a 4WD was a challenge. Despite having our seat belts on we were rocked and swung from side to side & at times thrown so high we were out of our seats & our feet thrown up off the ground. The Swiss contingent of Harley Davidson bikers, according to their tee shirts, tattoos & piercings, loved it & their hysterical laughter was contagious as they bounced up & down even higher on the back seat.
Our first stop was Lake McKenzie, where the sand was pure white & the fresh water was vivid blue. Beautiful & definitely made the shaky journey worthwhile. What made it for Mr L was that it was warm – as warm as his bath was his description which made him v happy. We swam out to a small island & back to the beach before getting back on the bus & heading to a shaded area for lunch & a short walk along a trail. In the afternoon we drove to 75 mile beach. I have no idea if it is that long but we drove along it for about 10km, with Hans making sure to avoid the small plane that took off from the beach. We made a few stops to examine an old shipwreck & the coloured sands – which Mr L observed were no where near as impressive as the Isle of Wight! We even had our first dingo sighting as it strolled casually along the beach. We were relieved that at last the sun had shone on one of our island trips; in fact it was the hottest weekend so far with temperatures in excess of 40 degrees on the beach. We were really pleased that we had taken people's advice & gone on the trip – a place definitely worth seeing & experiencing.
Back on the mainland we recovered the Hippee Camper from the car park (surprisingly noone had stolen it) & got back on the road. We had got back later than anticipated & the sun was going down. we had been advised not to drive at dusk because of the risk of Kangaroos on the road but we needed to get on. Thankfully it was fine & We had no kangaroo encounters. An hour & a half later we were at our spot for the night - a free camping site located in a car park at the back of a Puma petrol station, just off the highway. Living the high life!
After a surprisingly good nights sleep & clean toilets we were back on the road – destination Brisbane. Our first big city since we landed in Australia. Our friend B, had kindly offered for us to stay with his parents, who we had never met at their house in the suburbs of Brisbane. Thankfully they were v welcoming & we spent a lovely few days with them, sleeping in a proper bed & with a bathroom to ourselves. We had a great guided tour of the city & the local area, taking in a few bars & had 2 lovely evenings chatting over tasty food & great wine. It was so nice of J and P to extend such a warm welcome. We also got some great tips on the next leg of our journey. We had loved the coast road but it was time for a change. We decided to leave the Bruce highway behind and move inland to the New England highway and The Great Dividing Range.
Our first stop was Lake McKenzie, where the sand was pure white & the fresh water was vivid blue. Beautiful & definitely made the shaky journey worthwhile. What made it for Mr L was that it was warm – as warm as his bath was his description which made him v happy. We swam out to a small island & back to the beach before getting back on the bus & heading to a shaded area for lunch & a short walk along a trail. In the afternoon we drove to 75 mile beach. I have no idea if it is that long but we drove along it for about 10km, with Hans making sure to avoid the small plane that took off from the beach. We made a few stops to examine an old shipwreck & the coloured sands – which Mr L observed were no where near as impressive as the Isle of Wight! We even had our first dingo sighting as it strolled casually along the beach. We were relieved that at last the sun had shone on one of our island trips; in fact it was the hottest weekend so far with temperatures in excess of 40 degrees on the beach. We were really pleased that we had taken people's advice & gone on the trip – a place definitely worth seeing & experiencing.
Back on the mainland we recovered the Hippee Camper from the car park (surprisingly noone had stolen it) & got back on the road. We had got back later than anticipated & the sun was going down. we had been advised not to drive at dusk because of the risk of Kangaroos on the road but we needed to get on. Thankfully it was fine & We had no kangaroo encounters. An hour & a half later we were at our spot for the night - a free camping site located in a car park at the back of a Puma petrol station, just off the highway. Living the high life!
After a surprisingly good nights sleep & clean toilets we were back on the road – destination Brisbane. Our first big city since we landed in Australia. Our friend B, had kindly offered for us to stay with his parents, who we had never met at their house in the suburbs of Brisbane. Thankfully they were v welcoming & we spent a lovely few days with them, sleeping in a proper bed & with a bathroom to ourselves. We had a great guided tour of the city & the local area, taking in a few bars & had 2 lovely evenings chatting over tasty food & great wine. It was so nice of J and P to extend such a warm welcome. We also got some great tips on the next leg of our journey. We had loved the coast road but it was time for a change. We decided to leave the Bruce highway behind and move inland to the New England highway and The Great Dividing Range.
Wednesday, 15 February 2017
We'll take the coast road back through our lives
After spending the night at a campsite where the bathrooms had more insects & creatures than London Zoo, we decided we needed to put some miles behind us otherwise we were never going to get to Brisbane, which we had planned as our half way stop off point.
Along thIs stretch of the Bruce Highway much of it is coast road, with some wonderful views of the sea. It was so relaxing just cruising along in the van with very little traffic & nothing to do but drive. Thankfully we both drive so we change over regularly & the van is surprisingly easy & comfortable to drive – although with a tiny tank it needs regular fuel top ups.
The signage along the road continually warns you to look out for things – kangaroos, koalas, cattle – but a lot of the signs warn you of fatigue & encourage regular stops. They also ask the passenger to regularly check the driver is alert – which amuses us no end as we test each other to demonstrate alertness. My favourite road signs tell you that playing trivia games keeps you alert, followed by further signs that pose questions- none of which we knew the answer to – about Queensland. We have of course developed our own trivia games & talked endlessly about various topics, which is what you do when you are with someone 24/7 for 19 weeks! The radio reception isn't always great so, having purchased a Kings of Leon CD from a charity shop & played it to death we were keen to get something else. Driving along the Highway one morning we spotted a village fete, at a place called Appletree Creek that cried out for a visit, so we turned around to have a look. They had some old cars on display & Mr L spotted the model he learned to drive in (now an ancient relic of course!) & we found some CDs. I purchased the best one that had some cheesy songs we could a sing along - Culture Club’s greatest moments (note not greatest hits) for $1 which I later found was a copy when I got back to the van, and only part 2 of a double album - Rip off Creek more like! We also stopped off in a little town called Marlborough to stretch our legs. These little places are always worth a visit & the locals are usually v friendly although I never realised how obsessed the Australian’s were about the weather- the first question they always ask is was there was any rain in the previous town, then go into a long history of the rain or lack thereof in their region.
We stopped in three different towns in three nights all on the coast overlooking endless stretches of mostly empty beaches. It's still an absolute treat for us when we have parked in our camping spot to walk those long expanses of sand, often with our feet in the sea, especially after a long days drive & pinch ourselves that we are doing something we have long talked about, then back to the site for a cool in a pool or a refreshing shower.
Interestingly we have not met anyone our age doing this type of trip (some of you won't be surprised you that) however we have met lots of wonderful youngsters being far more ambitious and adventurous than we would ever have been. For example S&P – 18/19yr olds, who we met in Hervey Bay, who had decided not to go to university for now but worked two jobs to save & are now travelling up the East coast & then flying to Melbourne to work for a year; a German couple – similar age who had worked on a tomato farm for a month to earn money to buy a car, which they had converted the back into a bed so they could travel across Australia; and a whole group of young people from across the world working at a fruit farm for 88 days, which would allow them to extend their visa for another year to Travel. Considering the heat, humidity & flies in some areas we are relieved that we don't need to work on the farms (just yet) but are happy to keep travelling on the open road for now.
Next stop Fraser Island.
Along thIs stretch of the Bruce Highway much of it is coast road, with some wonderful views of the sea. It was so relaxing just cruising along in the van with very little traffic & nothing to do but drive. Thankfully we both drive so we change over regularly & the van is surprisingly easy & comfortable to drive – although with a tiny tank it needs regular fuel top ups.
The signage along the road continually warns you to look out for things – kangaroos, koalas, cattle – but a lot of the signs warn you of fatigue & encourage regular stops. They also ask the passenger to regularly check the driver is alert – which amuses us no end as we test each other to demonstrate alertness. My favourite road signs tell you that playing trivia games keeps you alert, followed by further signs that pose questions- none of which we knew the answer to – about Queensland. We have of course developed our own trivia games & talked endlessly about various topics, which is what you do when you are with someone 24/7 for 19 weeks! The radio reception isn't always great so, having purchased a Kings of Leon CD from a charity shop & played it to death we were keen to get something else. Driving along the Highway one morning we spotted a village fete, at a place called Appletree Creek that cried out for a visit, so we turned around to have a look. They had some old cars on display & Mr L spotted the model he learned to drive in (now an ancient relic of course!) & we found some CDs. I purchased the best one that had some cheesy songs we could a sing along - Culture Club’s greatest moments (note not greatest hits) for $1 which I later found was a copy when I got back to the van, and only part 2 of a double album - Rip off Creek more like! We also stopped off in a little town called Marlborough to stretch our legs. These little places are always worth a visit & the locals are usually v friendly although I never realised how obsessed the Australian’s were about the weather- the first question they always ask is was there was any rain in the previous town, then go into a long history of the rain or lack thereof in their region.
We stopped in three different towns in three nights all on the coast overlooking endless stretches of mostly empty beaches. It's still an absolute treat for us when we have parked in our camping spot to walk those long expanses of sand, often with our feet in the sea, especially after a long days drive & pinch ourselves that we are doing something we have long talked about, then back to the site for a cool in a pool or a refreshing shower.
Interestingly we have not met anyone our age doing this type of trip (some of you won't be surprised you that) however we have met lots of wonderful youngsters being far more ambitious and adventurous than we would ever have been. For example S&P – 18/19yr olds, who we met in Hervey Bay, who had decided not to go to university for now but worked two jobs to save & are now travelling up the East coast & then flying to Melbourne to work for a year; a German couple – similar age who had worked on a tomato farm for a month to earn money to buy a car, which they had converted the back into a bed so they could travel across Australia; and a whole group of young people from across the world working at a fruit farm for 88 days, which would allow them to extend their visa for another year to Travel. Considering the heat, humidity & flies in some areas we are relieved that we don't need to work on the farms (just yet) but are happy to keep travelling on the open road for now.
Next stop Fraser Island.
so throw those curtains wide....
We left Home Hill Town early and got straight back on the A1 Bruce Highway (can't wait until we reach the Shiela Highway). our next stop was a town called Bowen – the location of the Baz Lurmann film Australia – which I have not seen & is also known for the best mango sorbet – which I am not keen on. So not a great start. However the ladies at the tourist information were really helpful & after a long chat we did a whistle stop tour of Bowen & back on the highway to Airlie Beach. The ladies had recommended a detour en route to a hidden beach that not many knew about, which I thought strange as it was v well signposted. We stopped for a drink overlooking the beautiful white Sandy beach and clear blue waters of the sea. Mr L was unimpressed & didn't think the 50k detour, a large part of which was on unmade roads, was worth it. He may have had a point but just as we were leaving a kangaroo jumped out & crossed the road in front of us, & that for me made it all worth while. Our campsite, just outside town was our best yet & we stayed 3 days – mainly because the trip we had booked to the Whitsunday Islands got cancelled & we had to rearrange it for another day, but also because we wanted to relax – this is after all meant to be a holiday! When we arrived at the site we were told Saturday was music night. Fabulous. So after we had eaten we joined others around the campfire – which was completely unnecessary given the temperature but added to the authenticity - to listen to one man and his guitar. Not particularly tuneful but our $10 for 4L box of wine helped to numb the ear drums .
Our trip to the Whitsunday Islands coincided, again, with one of those overcast & wet days so the dazzling crystal clear blue waters & bright white sands of Whitehaven Beach – reputedly one of the best beaches in the world - was not quite as we would have liked but it was still pretty breathtaking. We walked along the wide expanse of beach to the sea & had a swim but the current was quite strong. The weather still hadn't improved when later we went to another small island to snorkel but once under the water, you are completely unaware of it. We snorkelled off the beach & the coral was just a few feet out & a few feet below so you were close, too close at times to it but it was fascinating to see and there were plenty of beautiful fish just below us.
As we left the campsite the following day we clocked up our first 1000km in the Hippee Camper. Our next destination was Cape Hillsborough a very quiet site, tucked away by a long deserted stretch of Beach. We walked along the beach & were completely alone save for 2 men walking their dog who were, like us looking at all the tiny crabs, marching like soldiers in huge battalions along the beach. As we walked around the mud flats on the edge of the beach, I turned around to see Mr L attempting to rescue his foot & flipflop that had got stuck in the mud. In doing so he managed to get his hand/arm in it & drop his phone too as he struggled to get up. He regained his balance and his property but there were some choice words! As we left the beach & climbed Andrews point to look out over the bay we could hear the 2 men we had seen laughing & when the trees cleared on the path we could see one had fallen into the mud flats & the other, trying to help him had also slipped & fallen in. They were in hysterics & started throwing it at each other, then gave in and just rolled in the mud. It was v funny to watch. We walked for nearly 2 hrs then back at the campsite as we sat reading, a kangaroo appeared on a patch grass near us. It attracted a lot of attention from other campers but it seemed unfazed by it. The following morning we got up at sunrise and walked onto the beach to see what we had come to see – a family of kangaroos gathered on the beach, foraging for food. It was so beautiful to watch them with the sun coming up over the sea and felt really special. We hoped our luck would last on animal sightings as we headed off to Finch Hatton Gorge, part of a National Park, where the leaflets promised we would see Platypus. I don't think I've ever seen one – in the zoo or otherwise & given that I seem to be acquiring new animal/insect phobias on a daily basis I'm, not sure why we were looking for them. The walk to the gorge was a couple of km, in hot sunshine along a very scenic trail. Mr L usually walks ahead just in case there are any close encounters but for some reason I was ahead & so was first to see the HUGE lizard that was basking in the sun on the path, blocking our way & in no hurry to move. We edged past & Mr L led the way for the rest of the walk. At the Gorge, whilst the waterfalls & huge boulders were impressive, there was no sign of the platypus. Perhaps it was for the best.
Our trip to the Whitsunday Islands coincided, again, with one of those overcast & wet days so the dazzling crystal clear blue waters & bright white sands of Whitehaven Beach – reputedly one of the best beaches in the world - was not quite as we would have liked but it was still pretty breathtaking. We walked along the wide expanse of beach to the sea & had a swim but the current was quite strong. The weather still hadn't improved when later we went to another small island to snorkel but once under the water, you are completely unaware of it. We snorkelled off the beach & the coral was just a few feet out & a few feet below so you were close, too close at times to it but it was fascinating to see and there were plenty of beautiful fish just below us.
As we left the campsite the following day we clocked up our first 1000km in the Hippee Camper. Our next destination was Cape Hillsborough a very quiet site, tucked away by a long deserted stretch of Beach. We walked along the beach & were completely alone save for 2 men walking their dog who were, like us looking at all the tiny crabs, marching like soldiers in huge battalions along the beach. As we walked around the mud flats on the edge of the beach, I turned around to see Mr L attempting to rescue his foot & flipflop that had got stuck in the mud. In doing so he managed to get his hand/arm in it & drop his phone too as he struggled to get up. He regained his balance and his property but there were some choice words! As we left the beach & climbed Andrews point to look out over the bay we could hear the 2 men we had seen laughing & when the trees cleared on the path we could see one had fallen into the mud flats & the other, trying to help him had also slipped & fallen in. They were in hysterics & started throwing it at each other, then gave in and just rolled in the mud. It was v funny to watch. We walked for nearly 2 hrs then back at the campsite as we sat reading, a kangaroo appeared on a patch grass near us. It attracted a lot of attention from other campers but it seemed unfazed by it. The following morning we got up at sunrise and walked onto the beach to see what we had come to see – a family of kangaroos gathered on the beach, foraging for food. It was so beautiful to watch them with the sun coming up over the sea and felt really special. We hoped our luck would last on animal sightings as we headed off to Finch Hatton Gorge, part of a National Park, where the leaflets promised we would see Platypus. I don't think I've ever seen one – in the zoo or otherwise & given that I seem to be acquiring new animal/insect phobias on a daily basis I'm, not sure why we were looking for them. The walk to the gorge was a couple of km, in hot sunshine along a very scenic trail. Mr L usually walks ahead just in case there are any close encounters but for some reason I was ahead & so was first to see the HUGE lizard that was basking in the sun on the path, blocking our way & in no hurry to move. We edged past & Mr L led the way for the rest of the walk. At the Gorge, whilst the waterfalls & huge boulders were impressive, there was no sign of the platypus. Perhaps it was for the best.
Thursday, 9 February 2017
Roll the dice, take a chance
Back on the open road in the Hippee Camper we headed to the imaginatively named Townsville. There were a couple of campsites near the centre but we opted for one on the edge of town so we could put our feet up. When we arrived we discovered it was a seventh day Adventist conference park. The office was not open yet so we pitched up (camping term) & settled ourselves in for the afternoon with lunch, a book and a glass of wine. When the office opened, we went to check in, only to discover it was a no alcohol site. Oops! In the late afternoon we went for a lovely walk along the river at the back of the park, with stunning scenery all around and there was plenty of activity; people power walking, running, cycling or just out for a stroll in the sunshine & we could see why people are attracted to Australia. Walking back we spotted turtles in the river all coming to the waters edge to say hello.
The next day we left the camper at the quayside & caught a ferry to Magnetic Island, known as ‘Maggie’ Island. It was ridiculously hot by 9.30am, so we caught the local bus to Horseshoe Bay & cooled down in the sea – inside the boom because of stingers, then went for a walk up to the fort which was used as a lookout point during WW2 . It afforded great views around the island & the bays and even better, we saw Osprey and two koalas - so cute.
In the afternoon we headed back to Townsville & looked around before having another cool down in the lagoon. Then we were back on the road. Mr L had found a free campsite in a small town called Home Hill. The site was located at the back of Main Street on a service road. Local shops had clubbed together to put facilities like hot showers and a cooking area there to encourage people to stop in the ten and it worked. It felt a little odd but it was clean & free. More importantly though it meant we were in downtown so could visit a proper locals bar. It was, after all Friday night.
As we went in, it was as you imagine, full of men sitting around the bar. The only other woman was serving.. I had been intrigued by the sign outside advertising seahorse racing. What was this place about? We discovered Friday night was games night – spin the wheel to win prizes, shake the dice to move the plastic seahorses up a track set up in a giant fish tank in the middle of the bar. The owner Eddie told us of days gone by when the bar was packed 5 deep. Now jut a dozen or so people in there. He also explained that the reels of plastic tubing around the ceiling was to be a racetrack for toy car hotrod racing but it hadn't quite worked. W bought raffle tickets & got chatting to the locals – including Fred a retired mine boss and Ven. Well where do I begin to describe him. A quiet man built like an ox, bare feet & apparently had never worn shoes, who used to work in the bush tracking lost cattle, capturing crocodiles anything really. He wore a cowboy hat, oh & his whole face was tattooed. It was pretty intimidating – a bit like Marlon Brando in Apocalypse Now, but you know me I will talk to anyone. As the wheel spinning began Fred won, Mr L & I won then Ven won the big pot & bought us a drink. No luck at the seahorse race for us but it was good fun. We had a great evening & met genuinely nice people. As we left, Ven invited us to join him for a drink at another bar. It was so tempting but we were driving the next morning so said our goodbyes. Plus there was always that risk that he might kill us.
The next day we left the camper at the quayside & caught a ferry to Magnetic Island, known as ‘Maggie’ Island. It was ridiculously hot by 9.30am, so we caught the local bus to Horseshoe Bay & cooled down in the sea – inside the boom because of stingers, then went for a walk up to the fort which was used as a lookout point during WW2 . It afforded great views around the island & the bays and even better, we saw Osprey and two koalas - so cute.
In the afternoon we headed back to Townsville & looked around before having another cool down in the lagoon. Then we were back on the road. Mr L had found a free campsite in a small town called Home Hill. The site was located at the back of Main Street on a service road. Local shops had clubbed together to put facilities like hot showers and a cooking area there to encourage people to stop in the ten and it worked. It felt a little odd but it was clean & free. More importantly though it meant we were in downtown so could visit a proper locals bar. It was, after all Friday night.
As we went in, it was as you imagine, full of men sitting around the bar. The only other woman was serving.. I had been intrigued by the sign outside advertising seahorse racing. What was this place about? We discovered Friday night was games night – spin the wheel to win prizes, shake the dice to move the plastic seahorses up a track set up in a giant fish tank in the middle of the bar. The owner Eddie told us of days gone by when the bar was packed 5 deep. Now jut a dozen or so people in there. He also explained that the reels of plastic tubing around the ceiling was to be a racetrack for toy car hotrod racing but it hadn't quite worked. W bought raffle tickets & got chatting to the locals – including Fred a retired mine boss and Ven. Well where do I begin to describe him. A quiet man built like an ox, bare feet & apparently had never worn shoes, who used to work in the bush tracking lost cattle, capturing crocodiles anything really. He wore a cowboy hat, oh & his whole face was tattooed. It was pretty intimidating – a bit like Marlon Brando in Apocalypse Now, but you know me I will talk to anyone. As the wheel spinning began Fred won, Mr L & I won then Ven won the big pot & bought us a drink. No luck at the seahorse race for us but it was good fun. We had a great evening & met genuinely nice people. As we left, Ven invited us to join him for a drink at another bar. It was so tempting but we were driving the next morning so said our goodbyes. Plus there was always that risk that he might kill us.
Friday, 3 February 2017
come on let's crawl, to the ugly bug ball...
After we had taken possession of the “Hippee Camper” we went straight to K Mart & Woolworths to stock up on provisions (which definitely did not include kaftans or flowers for our hair) then headed north. Why north you might ask given that our destination is in fact Sydney. Well so many people had recommended Port Douglas & Mossman Gorge that we had to take that short detour to see what it was all about. En route we stopped at Hartley’s crocodile Park where we saw lots of koalas & kangaroos & plenty of crocs. We went on a boat trip around the park & watched some being fed. The speed at which they move left us in no doubt as to how dangerous they are. Returning to the van we discovered our windscreen had been infested by huge green ants that seemed to be indestructible (we were still finding them days later), before heading to our first campsite. There are essentially 3 types of campsites; 1. Caravan parks – these have plenty of amenities & are also expensive; 2. low cost sites – these have a few facilities like washing machines/cooking area; 3. free camping areas - these have toilets, cold showers & that’s pretty much it. Our first site was low a cost site & apart from it being v hot in the van, our first night went ok. The following morning, Mr L's birthday, we were up and on the road early to the gorge. We followed a 3k trail walk in the rain forest which was v peaceful with some amazing trees but the swimming not recommended due to high water levels. Then we drove to Port Douglas, which is a v sleepy seaside town out of season but v pretty. It had the loveliest church with a window behind the alter that gave a great view out across the sea.
On the road we headed South, back past Cairns to a small town called Babinda. We stopped at the tourist information office where we interrupted a group of locals practising the ukulele. What is is with us and Ukuleles! We headed about 7k out of town to a free campsite on the edge of a nature reserve where we had a refreshing swim in the river. Don't worry it was crocodile free! Back at the van we had just finished eating when it started to rain some serious rain. It was so heavy that we were trapped under our makeshift canopy at the back of the van for over an hour before it eased off enough for us to move the few feet to the side door so we could get in. It didn't stop all night. After a v disturbed sleep, I woke at 5.45am & the rain had eased enough for me to venture to the loo.
My friend A says I'm made of tough stuff but I'm not. I'm pretty much terrified of most bugs & ‘things’! As I stepped from the van a dog (which had obviously wandered off from its owner) came over to me & I jumped out of my skin. I was not expecting that. On my walk to the bathroom I had to take a detour around a huge toad & inside I gave a wide berth to a huge green cricket type bug & a moth the size of my foot – I kid you not – I have photographic evidence – as well as any number of flying insects & of course the demon geckos. I was pretty freaked out by it all but I managed a shower. A v quick one! On the way back as well as the encounters on the outward journey I had to avoid an odd chicken type bird with a red head & 3 large squawky birds who I definitely didn't like the look of. Then the rain came back with a vengeance. We didn't bother with breakfast- we got out of there!
Our aim was to head to Mission Bay, spend time there then camp in Cardwell but when we got to each of them the rain was still so heavy with no sign of a let up, we could only give them a cursory glance through the window. We made the decision to keep driving until we arrived somewhere dry. In this case Crystal Creek (fabulous name)! We parked, put our clothes in the washing machine, went for a swim, a shower then cooked. It was lovely. But nothing is perfect &, as we were the only transient campers on site, the mosquitoes were v happy to see us & whilst it was nice to be out of the rain, the heat meant it was a very hot and humid night not ideal conditions for sleeping in a camper van.
On the road we headed South, back past Cairns to a small town called Babinda. We stopped at the tourist information office where we interrupted a group of locals practising the ukulele. What is is with us and Ukuleles! We headed about 7k out of town to a free campsite on the edge of a nature reserve where we had a refreshing swim in the river. Don't worry it was crocodile free! Back at the van we had just finished eating when it started to rain some serious rain. It was so heavy that we were trapped under our makeshift canopy at the back of the van for over an hour before it eased off enough for us to move the few feet to the side door so we could get in. It didn't stop all night. After a v disturbed sleep, I woke at 5.45am & the rain had eased enough for me to venture to the loo.
My friend A says I'm made of tough stuff but I'm not. I'm pretty much terrified of most bugs & ‘things’! As I stepped from the van a dog (which had obviously wandered off from its owner) came over to me & I jumped out of my skin. I was not expecting that. On my walk to the bathroom I had to take a detour around a huge toad & inside I gave a wide berth to a huge green cricket type bug & a moth the size of my foot – I kid you not – I have photographic evidence – as well as any number of flying insects & of course the demon geckos. I was pretty freaked out by it all but I managed a shower. A v quick one! On the way back as well as the encounters on the outward journey I had to avoid an odd chicken type bird with a red head & 3 large squawky birds who I definitely didn't like the look of. Then the rain came back with a vengeance. We didn't bother with breakfast- we got out of there!
Our aim was to head to Mission Bay, spend time there then camp in Cardwell but when we got to each of them the rain was still so heavy with no sign of a let up, we could only give them a cursory glance through the window. We made the decision to keep driving until we arrived somewhere dry. In this case Crystal Creek (fabulous name)! We parked, put our clothes in the washing machine, went for a swim, a shower then cooked. It was lovely. But nothing is perfect &, as we were the only transient campers on site, the mosquitoes were v happy to see us & whilst it was nice to be out of the rain, the heat meant it was a very hot and humid night not ideal conditions for sleeping in a camper van.
Seasick Steve
The flight from Darwin was delayed by about 30mins – surprisingly the first flight delay we have experienced so far & we were greeted by the sunshine on arrival. Our accommodation in Cairns was a cabin on a caravan park on the edge of town - cheap and clean. we arrived & caught the local bus into town to explore. Similar in size to Darwin there are still some lovely original buildings here & along the sea front it's immaculate, with tree lined footpaths & a fantastic (free) lagoon for swimming & areas for you to have a barbecue. This is Australia after all. We found the local supermarket (Woolworths) and, back at the cabin, we cooked up our own BBQ of sausages & steak.
The following day was super hot so we spent much of it swimming/cooling in the lagoon & laying in the shade of the trees. However no visit to Cairns would be complete without a visit to the Great Barrier Reef. So the following day we boarded a huge catamaran ‘ocean spirit’ (a name that inspires confidence) & set sail for Michaelmas Cay on the reef. It got off to a good start – cranberry muffins & a cup of tea accompanied by bright sunshine.
Then the weather turned, the sun disappeared & conditions got v choppy. I have never been good on boats. Ever since my first trip abroad- a day trip to Calais with the school where we subjected innocent locals to pointless questions such as ‘where is the train station?’ ‘ where is the town hall?’ (why did we need the Town Hall?)– I have always been sick on boats. However on this trip something odd happened- I was fine & Mr L, who hasn't been ill on a boat for 20+yrs, was seasick. Was I sympathetic & supportive? Of course, but I still insisted we went on the semi submerged trip once we arrived at our destination. I don't know why because as soon as we boarded the vessel, Mr L got worse & I had flash backs of my disastrous diving trip in the Maldives. Plus because of the rain we couldn't see much anyway. When we got off Mr L ran to the bathroom whilst I held his place in the lunch queue. My mum’s cure for everything was to eat – ‘it will make you feel better’. So we did. And he did. Sort of.
The weather was still awful but we had come to snorkel & that’s what we were going to do! We donned our Lycra body suits to protect us from the non existent sun & from stingers (jelly fish not stinging nettles) & got on the shuttle boat out to the island (basically a giant sandbank). Snorkels & flippers on, we ‘bum crawled’ our way into the sea, swam out about 100 yds & then we caught our first glimpse of the coral & the fish swimming just below us & it was all worth while. We stayed out there for ages & saw huge clams, a stingray, a turtle & so many different fish & coral - it was wonderful & we were both so pleased we had done it.
Back on the catamaran, heading back to Cairns, we both shut our eyes & zoned out, until suddenly I heard a pop then another & another. I sat bolt upright. Someone was opening fizz!! It was true – they were serving champagne!! I nudged Mr L & he knew what he had to do. He ran to the serving area, nudging people politely out of the way, to secure 2 glasses (later followed by another) to keep his beloved happy. It was delicious & it helped with Mr L's seasickness too. Oh how I have missed my fizz!!. A perfect end to the day.
The following day we picked up our camper van – our home for the next 4 weeks. It was the cheapest we could find & we could see why. It was tiny/compact/bijou. The whole of the inside behind the front seats, folded down to a double bed, which when you laid in it put your head about 3ft from the roof, with a small ‘kitchen’ at the back accessed through the backdoor – with a sink, a plug in cool box (described as a fridge) & a portable camping stove. The outside was white with purple floral & butterfly motifs painted all around it & the words “Hippee Camper” emblazoned on every side. Great.
The following day was super hot so we spent much of it swimming/cooling in the lagoon & laying in the shade of the trees. However no visit to Cairns would be complete without a visit to the Great Barrier Reef. So the following day we boarded a huge catamaran ‘ocean spirit’ (a name that inspires confidence) & set sail for Michaelmas Cay on the reef. It got off to a good start – cranberry muffins & a cup of tea accompanied by bright sunshine.
Then the weather turned, the sun disappeared & conditions got v choppy. I have never been good on boats. Ever since my first trip abroad- a day trip to Calais with the school where we subjected innocent locals to pointless questions such as ‘where is the train station?’ ‘ where is the town hall?’ (why did we need the Town Hall?)– I have always been sick on boats. However on this trip something odd happened- I was fine & Mr L, who hasn't been ill on a boat for 20+yrs, was seasick. Was I sympathetic & supportive? Of course, but I still insisted we went on the semi submerged trip once we arrived at our destination. I don't know why because as soon as we boarded the vessel, Mr L got worse & I had flash backs of my disastrous diving trip in the Maldives. Plus because of the rain we couldn't see much anyway. When we got off Mr L ran to the bathroom whilst I held his place in the lunch queue. My mum’s cure for everything was to eat – ‘it will make you feel better’. So we did. And he did. Sort of.
The weather was still awful but we had come to snorkel & that’s what we were going to do! We donned our Lycra body suits to protect us from the non existent sun & from stingers (jelly fish not stinging nettles) & got on the shuttle boat out to the island (basically a giant sandbank). Snorkels & flippers on, we ‘bum crawled’ our way into the sea, swam out about 100 yds & then we caught our first glimpse of the coral & the fish swimming just below us & it was all worth while. We stayed out there for ages & saw huge clams, a stingray, a turtle & so many different fish & coral - it was wonderful & we were both so pleased we had done it.
Back on the catamaran, heading back to Cairns, we both shut our eyes & zoned out, until suddenly I heard a pop then another & another. I sat bolt upright. Someone was opening fizz!! It was true – they were serving champagne!! I nudged Mr L & he knew what he had to do. He ran to the serving area, nudging people politely out of the way, to secure 2 glasses (later followed by another) to keep his beloved happy. It was delicious & it helped with Mr L's seasickness too. Oh how I have missed my fizz!!. A perfect end to the day.
The following day we picked up our camper van – our home for the next 4 weeks. It was the cheapest we could find & we could see why. It was tiny/compact/bijou. The whole of the inside behind the front seats, folded down to a double bed, which when you laid in it put your head about 3ft from the roof, with a small ‘kitchen’ at the back accessed through the backdoor – with a sink, a plug in cool box (described as a fridge) & a portable camping stove. The outside was white with purple floral & butterfly motifs painted all around it & the words “Hippee Camper” emblazoned on every side. Great.
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