These boots are made for walking....

I was convinced our flight to New Zealand was going to take  5-6 hrs. In fact it was only 3 ½ hrs – plus another 2hr+  time difference which means we are even further away from UK time. As you would expect, I read the border entry form very carefully & declared that we did indeed have boots & we had walked on soil (not water)  in the preceding 30 days,  and I was confident our boots would pass inspection. Mr L finds it highly amusing that I feel the need to scrub our boots every time we fly, but I hate the idea of being held up as a poor scrubber as it were. So, as you can imagine, I was absolutely mortified when the boots were  were inspected & deemed to be ‘contaminated’ & removed by the customs officer for cleaning. I felt judged & rightly so.  It also meant that we took 1 1/2 hours to get out of the airport. We called our car rental company, ‘lucky’  to collect us. We weren't quite so lucky when we were handed the keys to a sad looking Nissan that had seen better days but we had only paid £20 p.day so we were fine with it. We wanted to have a Camper van for our whole time in New Zealand but we weren't able to get one for the first 5days so we rented a car instead,  with the plan to explore places to the North of Auckland then drive back, swap the car for a van and continue with our tour of NZ. 
I have to confess that when lots of people asked us before & since we set off ‘which island are you going to’, I had no idea which was which, which Town was on which island & whether we should be going to both or just one and if so which one?  So my response was always vague. As you will be aware from our blog planning our travels is pretty much on the go & this time was no different. We had contacted family for their ‘best places to go’ advice & that forms the basis of our travel plans. I should add  that pretty much most of Mr L’s family have been to NZ so I am therefore legally obliged to include more details of the places we go to and the towns we visit, so they can relive their experiences. They are not to be messed with.
We arrived at our guest house on the edge of Auckland, grabbed some food, connected to the wifi, laid out our free maps & secondhand (recently purchased from a charity shop) NZ guidebook circa 2007, and planned the next few days &, with the help of airbnb we booked 3 nights accommodation. Sorted. Then we drove into downtown to explore the city of Auckland. Not the best place to start I would say. Perhaps because the sky had clouded over, or because we were tired,  but we were v unimpressed with the place. We headed back to our guesthouse  in the hope that NZ would offer us a lot more the next day. Thankfully it did. We hadn't given ourselves too much driving to do on day one of our trip, so the first stop was Warkworth. As soon as we left Auckland the scenery kicked in. Stunning. Rolling hills, the greenest fields contrasted against the bluest skies & lots of winding roads.  Along the way we stopped off at a beach and did what we normally do, strolled along it and then back again. 
Our next port of call was at Waiwera thermal spa resort, where we boiled our bodies in 38degree water, then immersed ourselves in the ‘movie pool’ where they were showing “Petes Dragon” – quite a bizarre concept, then we got a fit of the giggles as we rode rubber rings down the laziest lazy  river ride ever - I'm sure you can just picture it - before Mr L hit the zooms, whilst I opted to record his landings for posterity. All good fun. Our accommodation was a modern, self contained apartment above a garage & v nice it was too. Such a contrast to life in a Camper van. We had a tour of the town then sat on their veranda in the sun reading. Perfect. I could get used to it. Later we drove down to Snells Bay & Algies Bay where we sat and admired the views before calling into the appropriately named 'Liquorland' for some refreshments on the way back to town.

Moving down the highway of my life....

We had 4 days to get the Camper van we were relocating, from Sydney to Melbourne. Except we didn't. We didn't get on the road until 11.45 on Monday & we had to deliver it by 2pm Thursday, which meant we only had 3 days to cover the 1100km coastal route. We had hoped to  stop in at Canberra but quickly realised that wasn't on the cards. I also had a long list of ‘must see’ places  which was unlikely to be fully achieved. It was mid pm  before we put Sydney behind us & once on the open road & we were suddenly aware of the  strong cross winds that battered the van making it hard to drive. However, on the plus side,  it created some spectacular waves, so when we stopped at Kiama to observe the ‘blowhole’ where the sea comes up through a gap in the rocks it was like a huge explosion of water shooting right up in the air. We joined the groups of school kids watching it & screaming at  getting soaked – yet waiting for more. Back on the road & the wind was still making it a challenge to keep control so we called it a day about 4.30 pm & found a campsite, where ‘the computers were down’ so they let us in for free. Result! The next morning we stopped off in Ulladulla & walked along the deserted  beach before getting back on the Princes Highway, stopping in Batemans Bay & Eden for a look around. When we finally stopped we had covered nearly 350km & the camping was free due to a dispute with the local council about who collected the money. Result! We found a lovely walk that skirted a river then crossed it via stepping stones which I did with great trepidation- I think you know by now I'm not the adventurous type, then we Jogged back to the van to get our legs moving. We were in bed by 8pm & despite the man singing David Gray songs at full volume we were asleep moments later.  We got up early & drove to Lakes Entrance  & walked out past the lakes to 90 mile beach where the surf looked impressive in the sun. We had breakfast in a car park (glamorous)then back on the road, stopping only to steal wifi from McD’s  in their car park. Another 350km completed, we pulled into our stop for the night, Warragul caravan & retirement park – a glimpse of the future perhaps?! It wasn't free but it did have a washing machine, dryer & a swimming pool so we got to it. As we loaded the machine we realised we wanted to wash the clothes we had on so we shut the door & stripped off in the laundry room, put our costumes on & went swimming as our clothes washed. Later, when we were back in the laundry room folding our clothes I noticed a sign that said ‘CCTV in operation’  then looked up and spotted the camera – oops!
The last leg of the journey was mostly motorway & the high rise buildings of Melbourne grew as we got nearer. We dropped our bags at our hotel in the city & drove out  to deliver the van. Mission accomplished but we were both exhausted so when we got back to the hotel we crashed out. Later we went out to explore & to have a drink at the oldest pub – the Mitre (it was like being back in London). The following day we had an important on to do. Get a haircut. Easy enough for Mr L, he found a barbers that did an excellent job of restoring him to his normal self. I struggled to find somewhere for less than $250 until we found out about a hair academy where I got the full treatment for $90 – although it did take 3hrs!!
We had 5 nights in Melbourne but we really didn't have the energy to do it justice. We loved Victoria Market & the hipster areas of Brunswick & south Yarra, the street art (but not the graffiti) & the buildings, the great transport systems & the very relaxed vibe of the place. We met up with C&E who we had met on our travels now giving Melbourne living a go in a fab flat with city view and we chilled in a few local bars.
Our niece C will be v disappointed to hear that whilst in Melbourne we did not make it to the set of ‘Neighbours’ & get her the list of autographs she requested. As am I, but  Australia is such a vast country with so much to see,  we didn't get there or get to so many of the places we had wanted to see; we didn't even scratch the surface. We did however, have great fun. We had no expectations of Australia but it has surprised to us. The road trips took us back in our minds to our travels in the USA in 1983 when we were planning our future & a family, and now, with our beautiful children fully grown &  at a different stage in our lives,  having a different experience, we have relaxed & enjoyed  what it has had to offer - the landscape, the people, the towns, the buildings, similar at times to England & America but for the most part it has its own identity . We will be back to see you again Australia but for now it's time to move on. New Zealand awaits.

I can see clearly now the rain has gone

The rain continued to plague our visit to Sydney, as M took us out to explore the local area including a  redeveloped area of warehouse conversions housing, shops, cafes, microbrewery & an intriguing space that had axe throwing. Two targets marked out on a wall made from old palates, with a flimsy rail sectioning the area off, whilst axes are thrown at the target (or not). Something different for a stag do I guess but I can't see it passing Health and Safety regulations in England. It did seem quite popular though  - as well as very dangerous!Thankfully the rain held off in the evening as we travelled into the centre of Sydney to join the huge crowds on the streets to celebrate Mardi Gras. It was as you would expect, colourful, bright & loud but a very chilled out vibe. Everyone seemed well prepared with small stools to stand on so we walked along, to try to find a good vantage point. We stood with a small group who cheered & clapped everyone as they went past. Not one derogatory comment or criticism – just encouragement particularly for those in the procession who were running out of energy. A really lovely atmosphere.
The following morning we were up early & heading to the Blue Mountains. The weather wasn't great but we were hoping to catch a break when we got there. M our guide, an optimist & big fan of the Mountains, enthused about the views  we hoped we would get the chance to see if the clouds were kind enough to step aside. Our first stop was Jelly Bean lake – a great spot for an early morning swim, however not on this morning. The water looked cold, dark and uninviting so we remained fully clothed. Next we drove to the start of the under cliff /over cliff trail which, as its name suggests, skirts along the edge – almost too close at times, but gives great views across the huge expanse of mountains & valleys. The weather cleared long enough for us to see the great views but quickly closed in again. Then after a cup of tea & cake we drove to the three sisters – 3 towers of rock which spur off from the land they are attached to. M told us that he and E had climbed up & camped on the top of one of the sisters & tabseiled down when they first came of Australia but this is no longer permitted as the rocks are deemed sacred by the Aborigines. We did however climb down a very steep set of steps to stand under a ridge on the first sister which gave us some idea of how much of a challenge that must have been. They are a great sight to see but I was more taken back by the views across the whole area – for as far as the clouds would allow me to see there were mountains. Stunning. As was the very brief glimpse we had of the area known as the Grand Canyon, before the clouds moved across like a set of curtains & shut out our view. Sadly the sun did not allow the blue of the mountains to shine & let us see it in its famous colour,  but it was still definitely worth the trip. On the journey back to Sydney we did a brief detour so M could show us his beehive. He has a friend who shares his interest & provides the space for keeping the hive which produces some very tasty honey. I observed from the safety of the garage but Mr L got v close (too close for a man in shorts & no protective clothing). Thankfully no stings. Back at the house, we joined M&E & their invited friends for a lovely afternoon  dinner in the garden for our final evening in their home & in Sydney . Great food & great company. M&E had been fabulously generous with their home & their time & made us feel so welcome. Sydney had not been at all what we expected. It's still retains so much character. In parts it reminded us of Brighton, but fresher – a bit less jaded (no offence) & we both really took to the place. The following morning we were back on the road & back in a Camper van. But this time it was different. We were relocating van from Sydney to Melbourne for $1 per day plus they paid for our fuel. We were given 3 days to do it I'm but we had opted to extend the trip by a further day for an extra $75. We weren't sure what type of van it would be so we were very pleased to find it had a built in cooker, microwave & you could stand up in it!  How the other live. Our route would take us along the coast which meant we had to cover over 1100kms. Sounds pretty straight forward .

Stuck on you....

We were in Sydney for 3 days before we made it to the harbour. What an earth were we doing you may ask?! Well we had a ‘day off’ to catch up with sleep & chores such as washing, future travel plans etc & we also had to return the Hippee Camper to the depot,  so we took advantage of being that side of the city to explore the Royal National Park. We said our goodbyes to the van & drove to the park  (M&E had kindly lent us a car). First stop the visitor centre which also sold great muffins! Then we took to the waters in a canoe on the tranquil waterways at Albury where Mr L & I had a useful discussion on oarmanship & who might/might not be responsible for causing the canoe to veer into the reeds. The conclusion was it was probably the canoe – we are far better in a kayak. Then we drove further into the park to find a trail that took us through an area of  rain forest. We walked for nearly an hour through moderate terrain but quite wet in places due to the recent weather & because it's a rain forest! When we got back to the car I felt something on my ankle & when I reached down to get it I discovered it was a leech! I couldn't get out of the car quick enough to get my trainers & socks off. Mr L thought I was being dramatic (as if) until he realised he had leeches stuck on him too. Total count: me – 4 attached & 3 on/in my socks & trainers; Mr L – 6 on him. When we were sure we had removed them all we drove to the beach & stood with our feet in the sea to wash away the blood & clean the wounds. Leeches have been added to my ever increasing list of creatures I do not like. Currently in top position.  The next day M acted as our tour guide, starting with the coastal walk that took in 5 different bays/beaches including Bondi. The weather was particularly unkind to us, with heavy rain & strong winds which meant we didn't see the beaches at their best. The sun did come out later though when we strolled around the well tended botanic gardens and where we got our first glimpse of the iconic Harbour Bridge & Opera House. When you are travelling for so long you forget or take for granted that you are in another country- in this case one that is across the other side of the world but seeing that view reminded us of how far we have travelled & made us stop to enjoy the moment. Our next stop was an area called 'The Rocks' which we loved - lots of original buildings, houses & pubs that have been preserved & gave us a feel for what Sydney was like 100+ yrs ago. We went into some of the pubs – just for a look of course – and strolled around the streets & under the start of the Harbour bridge. Definitely an area to visit. With great train links to the city M&E’s house was ideally placed for exploring Sydney & we spent several days visiting the sights. Our trip coincided with the arrival at the Quay of the Queen Mary 2 Cunard liner – a great sight to see when we caught the ferry to Manly – described by my mum in her holiday diary as an Island. It isn't but I could see why she thought that & why her and Moy made several trips here when they stayed in Sydney. Cafes & shops line the pedestrianised walkways & seats along the beachfront to watch the surfers and the sea. We also explored Darling harbour & also took E up on her offer to show us around the Federal Court where she works (how could I resist!), where we sat in on an appeal being heard by the Lord Chief Justice. The courtrooms are very impressive and the building has great facilities. The real bonus is it's located right in the heart of Sydney so from  the 16th floor we were treated to great views across the city. The area where M&E live was also good for exploring,  with the majority of shops & houses, including theirs, built when Sydney began to develop as a city with beautifully preserved period features – definitely not what we expected. A great community feel too. One evening We got tickets to see an Irish band ‘The Young Folk’ at an unusual venue – Streatham Bowls Club. I've never been to a gig at a bowls club so my expectations were quite low. As we pulled up the place looked empty & we thought we had the wrong place but as we went in there were 4 rows of chairs set out in front of a small stage & tables at the back. By the time the band came on the place was packed – the vast majority Irish or of Irish origins & so plenty of support and interaction with the band. It was a great night – the band were good & it was nice to hear some live music. 

We are family....

I hadn't really thought beyond the point of finding the house of a cousin I had never met, the details of which  had been recorded in my mums address book, untouched for the past 16 years. However,  in her travel diary, which I  read last year documenting her trip to, among other places, Singapore and Australia with her friend Moy, mum had written with such affection for her visit to this branch of the family I had to at least try to make contact. 
When the man answered the door, I asked him to confirm the address I had written down,  which he did. I then asked him if he was Paul E and he replied yes. I was surprised. I was expecting him to say no or at least challenge me as to why I wanted this information which is what I would have done, but he was calm, softly spoken and v polite. So I told him who I was and that I was his cousin. He took the news quite well possibly because he had seen how nicely groomed I was!  I had even put a frock on. I gave Mr L the thumbs up and he pulled the Hippee Camper up onto the drive. 

We spent the next few hours drinking tea and catching up and as we talked I studied his features, looking for a family resemblance and was pleased to see glimpses of both my brothers in his face. 

Later, Paul took us out for a drive around the area and to the beaches he loves. He showed us where he (still) surfs and it was clear why he still lives in the same place after all these years - it's lovely. Then, he took us to the lake where my aunt and uncle’s ashes were scattered when they passed away -  a place where they regularly fished and both loved. It was such a peaceful spot.  He recounted his happy memories of mum and Moy’s visit and how much fun they were & we shared stories of when his mum and dad visited us in England. In the evening we met his lovely children and he cooked us delicious steaks and insisted we stayed the night. 
The following morning we said our goodbyes and exchanged details & promises of keeping in contact with a branch of the family I had known for less than 24 hours but who had been so generous and welcoming. It was quite heartwarming 

We headed back to the campsite to check out and collect the belongings we had left behind. Sadly the blue skies had gone and the sky was grey & full of rain. As we began to drive out of the site we somehow got caught up in a procession of vintage vehicles ,  when all the hot rod cars were leaving, heading to a rally in a nearby town. A small crowd of locals had gathered at the entrance to the campsite to admire the 50+  hot rods  however they weren't expecting the Hippee Camper that was sandwiched in between and so as we left the park there were peels of laughter and we got a huge cheer.

We were on the final leg of of our Hippee Camper trip heading down the M1 to a campsite on the edge of Sydney to spend our last night in the van and  get it scrubbed and ready to be returned. As if to remind us of the joys of Camper van living, the rain fell out of the sky making our last night a sleepless one. With over 4000 kilometres behind us and just 24 km ahead, we were excited to be hitting the big city at last and were looking forward to sleeping in a proper bed that had been so generously offered by an old school friend M & his wife E. 

Someone's knocking at the door, somebody's ringing the bell...

After 9 days of travelling inland we were heading back to the coast and the sky was a beautiful blue as if to confirm this was a good decision. First stop Port Macquire  or Port as it's known – where we parked up & strolled along the seafront, lined with rocks people have decorated with messages, memories and memorials, but it we needed to get on. We drove along Ocean Drive, stopping  along the way to admire the beaches and the views before we found a campsite in a small town called Harrington. The site had great reviews &  great facilities but as we got out of the van  I was stopped in my tracks. A HUGE lizard (goanna) about 4 feet long head to toe. It saw us & sauntered off. I told the lady on reception and her response was not what I wanted to hear. “Yes” laughing loudly  “we have lots of those…and snakes”! Why would you say that? To me of all people. I hesitated. Could I stay here with these prehistoric monsters roaming freely? We were hungry &  in need of a rest so we stayed, but I was on high alert. Thankfully there was only 2 other sightings which,  Mr L assured me was the same lizard just moving around. We had a lovely afternoon walking  along a vast expanse of pure white sand to the ocean just at the back of the campsite &, after Bob & Glynis 2 Aussie grey nomads as they call them here,  camped next to us, showed us around there tent/truck set up we were tucked up in bed by 9pm. Life on the edge. 
The following morning we continued heading down towards Sydney &, whilst looking on our campsite apps for suitable sites we found one in Booti Booti National Park – we had to stay there! As we checked in I asked if they had any Lizards & the response was “not really”. Liar!! Within 30 minutes we had seen 6 – 2 of which strolled off together and walked into the ladies toilet/shower block & another  came out of the woods not far from where I was sorting lunch. It was too much for me – I went off in search of a new camping spot. When I returned to the van Mr L was inside with the sliding door open & a v large lizard was right by the door. As Mr L leaned out to talk to it (he likes them!) it strolled under the van. We moved immediately to another spot with no shade but a long way from lizard forest! 
Rather predictably, after lunch we walked along the beach at the back of the site for miles then sat among the dunes and watched the waves & lay in the sunshine. We spent the evening with a Dutch couple camped near us, talking & admiring the hills & views around us.Up the next morning I showered with one eye on the bottom of the door, just in case the lizards decided to pay a visit (they didn't) then we were back in the Camper continuing south. 
Our final destination in the van was a Sydney but on the way there I wanted to go to a small town call Noraville. Why? Two reasons; 1.my mum & her friend Moy went there to see my dad's sister & 2. I may still  have relatives there. We found a lovely campsite, completely lizard free, where our pitch was under the shade of two trees with a beautiful lake behind us so we could, and did,  watch the stunning sunset reflecting shades of purple & blue over the water. Perfect. We also discovered that our visit to the campsite coincided with the hot rod enthusiasts annual meet so the park was full of incredible cars . We spent the afternoon washing and grooming. Mr L trimmed his beard & I tackled my hair.   It was so unruly I had finally purchased a travel hairdryer that morning  and ( my hairdresser will go mad if she reads this) Mr L trimmed my hair with some nail scissors. It had to be done. We had to look in someway presentable. 

So the following day, armed with information from my mums old address book  we went in search of a cousin I had never met. I wasn't really sure if this was a good idea. I could have tried the phone number but decided to take the full on approach. We found the address and Mr L parked up whilst I walked up the driveway,  climbed the stairs to the first floor veranda that led me to the porch door, I rang the bell and waited. A moment later a man appeared. 

Red light spells danger

The following day we said goodbye to Glen Innes – a town that was way too exciting for us, & headed to Armidale, a sedate, demur city ( city because it has not 1 but 2 cathedrals) & clearly a place for the ‘well to do’. We weren't really sure where to go from here & the lady in the tourist information didn't help us resolve that. However a chance encounter with a man in the car park outside  gave us some great ideas locally & further afield. Good timing as the rain had just arrived. We set off along Waterfall Way where we kept ahead of the rain for most of the 40km but the dark sky made the landscape look quite sinister. Much of the road was windy & uphill but there was v little traffic so we ambled along. We turned off the highway into the New England National Park & followed a gravel road for another 10k or so up to the top. Mr L was sceptical about the promised views as it did not feel as if we had climbed that high. How wrong he was. There before laid out before us were hills and mountain ranges with an approx 160 degree panoramic view. Much of them were coated in a layer of cloud but still visible. It was stunning, but v windy & the rain was definitely about to arrive. We drove back down about 3k to the campsite which was in a heavily wooded area with only 1 other couple camping there. We quickly fashioned an awning off the side of the van just as the rain arrived & cooked dinner, which we ate with one of us holding onto the tarpaulin & the other draining the big pools of water that were gathering in it. By 7pm we were sat in the van stuffing tissues into a gap to stop the drips that were getting in through the sliding door. Who doesn't love camping?!
The following morning, after a freezing cold night,  we went back up to the lookout point – which, for those interested, is at an altitude of 1563m -   & the view was incredible . The morning sky was clear and blue & it looked like you could see forever. It was so peaceful & still and there was just us there to see it. These special moments make you forget the rain & cold. A few kilometres on we spotted a sign for Wollomombi  falls – only 3 km off the highway so we took the detour. No real expectations so we were stunned by the sight of a massive Gorge where the land looked like it had been ripped apart leaving this gaping wound, with water pouring off the edge. This place is full of surprises and many are barely mentioned on the map.
We headed back towards Armidale then onto the Oxley Highway to Walcha, where we needed to decide which road to take - inland or back towards the coast. We opted for the Oxley Highway towards the coast where we spotted another signpost which directed us to Apsley Falls and yet more stunning views which we shared just with each other. 
A few km further on, with hardly any other traffic & no town for about 80km,  I noticed the red  engine light had come on. I stopped immediately and had flash backs of my childhood where something similar seemed to happen to dad’s car regularly  & it was never good news.  Don't let us down now Hippee Camper. I'm sorry we haven't given you a pet name or that we have been quick to deny we were hippies when asked on numerous occasions by people.  Just be alright. Mr L checked things under the engine  located under the passenger seat. There was nothing to prop the seat up with so Mr L used the bit of tree we have been carrying around in the van for such a task. All seemed ok. After several attempts I got through to the helpline. I explained the situation, provided details as requested. When I told him it was a Hippee Camper his response changed “ oh, don't worry about that old thing it's probably a faulty light or something. Just keep driving and if it stops give us a call”. Ok. So, with considerable trepidation I drove, slowly, willing it to keep going. I kept looking for good places to pull over if we did breakdown. Then the road started to weave and bend and twist and turn for miles and miles as we came down from the plateau, all I could think about was what if we breakdown here! . The red light stayed on but still the van kept going. Nearly 3 hrs later we reached our stop for the night in a town called Wauchop.  As I pulled onto the site and straightened up the red light went out. All was well. For the van that is. I was exhausted!