I can see clearly now the rain has gone

The rain continued to plague our visit to Sydney, as M took us out to explore the local area including a  redeveloped area of warehouse conversions housing, shops, cafes, microbrewery & an intriguing space that had axe throwing. Two targets marked out on a wall made from old palates, with a flimsy rail sectioning the area off, whilst axes are thrown at the target (or not). Something different for a stag do I guess but I can't see it passing Health and Safety regulations in England. It did seem quite popular though  - as well as very dangerous!Thankfully the rain held off in the evening as we travelled into the centre of Sydney to join the huge crowds on the streets to celebrate Mardi Gras. It was as you would expect, colourful, bright & loud but a very chilled out vibe. Everyone seemed well prepared with small stools to stand on so we walked along, to try to find a good vantage point. We stood with a small group who cheered & clapped everyone as they went past. Not one derogatory comment or criticism – just encouragement particularly for those in the procession who were running out of energy. A really lovely atmosphere.
The following morning we were up early & heading to the Blue Mountains. The weather wasn't great but we were hoping to catch a break when we got there. M our guide, an optimist & big fan of the Mountains, enthused about the views  we hoped we would get the chance to see if the clouds were kind enough to step aside. Our first stop was Jelly Bean lake – a great spot for an early morning swim, however not on this morning. The water looked cold, dark and uninviting so we remained fully clothed. Next we drove to the start of the under cliff /over cliff trail which, as its name suggests, skirts along the edge – almost too close at times, but gives great views across the huge expanse of mountains & valleys. The weather cleared long enough for us to see the great views but quickly closed in again. Then after a cup of tea & cake we drove to the three sisters – 3 towers of rock which spur off from the land they are attached to. M told us that he and E had climbed up & camped on the top of one of the sisters & tabseiled down when they first came of Australia but this is no longer permitted as the rocks are deemed sacred by the Aborigines. We did however climb down a very steep set of steps to stand under a ridge on the first sister which gave us some idea of how much of a challenge that must have been. They are a great sight to see but I was more taken back by the views across the whole area – for as far as the clouds would allow me to see there were mountains. Stunning. As was the very brief glimpse we had of the area known as the Grand Canyon, before the clouds moved across like a set of curtains & shut out our view. Sadly the sun did not allow the blue of the mountains to shine & let us see it in its famous colour,  but it was still definitely worth the trip. On the journey back to Sydney we did a brief detour so M could show us his beehive. He has a friend who shares his interest & provides the space for keeping the hive which produces some very tasty honey. I observed from the safety of the garage but Mr L got v close (too close for a man in shorts & no protective clothing). Thankfully no stings. Back at the house, we joined M&E & their invited friends for a lovely afternoon  dinner in the garden for our final evening in their home & in Sydney . Great food & great company. M&E had been fabulously generous with their home & their time & made us feel so welcome. Sydney had not been at all what we expected. It's still retains so much character. In parts it reminded us of Brighton, but fresher – a bit less jaded (no offence) & we both really took to the place. The following morning we were back on the road & back in a Camper van. But this time it was different. We were relocating van from Sydney to Melbourne for $1 per day plus they paid for our fuel. We were given 3 days to do it I'm but we had opted to extend the trip by a further day for an extra $75. We weren't sure what type of van it would be so we were very pleased to find it had a built in cooker, microwave & you could stand up in it!  How the other live. Our route would take us along the coast which meant we had to cover over 1100kms. Sounds pretty straight forward .

Stuck on you....

We were in Sydney for 3 days before we made it to the harbour. What an earth were we doing you may ask?! Well we had a ‘day off’ to catch up with sleep & chores such as washing, future travel plans etc & we also had to return the Hippee Camper to the depot,  so we took advantage of being that side of the city to explore the Royal National Park. We said our goodbyes to the van & drove to the park  (M&E had kindly lent us a car). First stop the visitor centre which also sold great muffins! Then we took to the waters in a canoe on the tranquil waterways at Albury where Mr L & I had a useful discussion on oarmanship & who might/might not be responsible for causing the canoe to veer into the reeds. The conclusion was it was probably the canoe – we are far better in a kayak. Then we drove further into the park to find a trail that took us through an area of  rain forest. We walked for nearly an hour through moderate terrain but quite wet in places due to the recent weather & because it's a rain forest! When we got back to the car I felt something on my ankle & when I reached down to get it I discovered it was a leech! I couldn't get out of the car quick enough to get my trainers & socks off. Mr L thought I was being dramatic (as if) until he realised he had leeches stuck on him too. Total count: me – 4 attached & 3 on/in my socks & trainers; Mr L – 6 on him. When we were sure we had removed them all we drove to the beach & stood with our feet in the sea to wash away the blood & clean the wounds. Leeches have been added to my ever increasing list of creatures I do not like. Currently in top position.  The next day M acted as our tour guide, starting with the coastal walk that took in 5 different bays/beaches including Bondi. The weather was particularly unkind to us, with heavy rain & strong winds which meant we didn't see the beaches at their best. The sun did come out later though when we strolled around the well tended botanic gardens and where we got our first glimpse of the iconic Harbour Bridge & Opera House. When you are travelling for so long you forget or take for granted that you are in another country- in this case one that is across the other side of the world but seeing that view reminded us of how far we have travelled & made us stop to enjoy the moment. Our next stop was an area called 'The Rocks' which we loved - lots of original buildings, houses & pubs that have been preserved & gave us a feel for what Sydney was like 100+ yrs ago. We went into some of the pubs – just for a look of course – and strolled around the streets & under the start of the Harbour bridge. Definitely an area to visit. With great train links to the city M&E’s house was ideally placed for exploring Sydney & we spent several days visiting the sights. Our trip coincided with the arrival at the Quay of the Queen Mary 2 Cunard liner – a great sight to see when we caught the ferry to Manly – described by my mum in her holiday diary as an Island. It isn't but I could see why she thought that & why her and Moy made several trips here when they stayed in Sydney. Cafes & shops line the pedestrianised walkways & seats along the beachfront to watch the surfers and the sea. We also explored Darling harbour & also took E up on her offer to show us around the Federal Court where she works (how could I resist!), where we sat in on an appeal being heard by the Lord Chief Justice. The courtrooms are very impressive and the building has great facilities. The real bonus is it's located right in the heart of Sydney so from  the 16th floor we were treated to great views across the city. The area where M&E live was also good for exploring,  with the majority of shops & houses, including theirs, built when Sydney began to develop as a city with beautifully preserved period features – definitely not what we expected. A great community feel too. One evening We got tickets to see an Irish band ‘The Young Folk’ at an unusual venue – Streatham Bowls Club. I've never been to a gig at a bowls club so my expectations were quite low. As we pulled up the place looked empty & we thought we had the wrong place but as we went in there were 4 rows of chairs set out in front of a small stage & tables at the back. By the time the band came on the place was packed – the vast majority Irish or of Irish origins & so plenty of support and interaction with the band. It was a great night – the band were good & it was nice to hear some live music. 

We are family....

I hadn't really thought beyond the point of finding the house of a cousin I had never met, the details of which  had been recorded in my mums address book, untouched for the past 16 years. However,  in her travel diary, which I  read last year documenting her trip to, among other places, Singapore and Australia with her friend Moy, mum had written with such affection for her visit to this branch of the family I had to at least try to make contact. 
When the man answered the door, I asked him to confirm the address I had written down,  which he did. I then asked him if he was Paul E and he replied yes. I was surprised. I was expecting him to say no or at least challenge me as to why I wanted this information which is what I would have done, but he was calm, softly spoken and v polite. So I told him who I was and that I was his cousin. He took the news quite well possibly because he had seen how nicely groomed I was!  I had even put a frock on. I gave Mr L the thumbs up and he pulled the Hippee Camper up onto the drive. 

We spent the next few hours drinking tea and catching up and as we talked I studied his features, looking for a family resemblance and was pleased to see glimpses of both my brothers in his face. 

Later, Paul took us out for a drive around the area and to the beaches he loves. He showed us where he (still) surfs and it was clear why he still lives in the same place after all these years - it's lovely. Then, he took us to the lake where my aunt and uncle’s ashes were scattered when they passed away -  a place where they regularly fished and both loved. It was such a peaceful spot.  He recounted his happy memories of mum and Moy’s visit and how much fun they were & we shared stories of when his mum and dad visited us in England. In the evening we met his lovely children and he cooked us delicious steaks and insisted we stayed the night. 
The following morning we said our goodbyes and exchanged details & promises of keeping in contact with a branch of the family I had known for less than 24 hours but who had been so generous and welcoming. It was quite heartwarming 

We headed back to the campsite to check out and collect the belongings we had left behind. Sadly the blue skies had gone and the sky was grey & full of rain. As we began to drive out of the site we somehow got caught up in a procession of vintage vehicles ,  when all the hot rod cars were leaving, heading to a rally in a nearby town. A small crowd of locals had gathered at the entrance to the campsite to admire the 50+  hot rods  however they weren't expecting the Hippee Camper that was sandwiched in between and so as we left the park there were peels of laughter and we got a huge cheer.

We were on the final leg of of our Hippee Camper trip heading down the M1 to a campsite on the edge of Sydney to spend our last night in the van and  get it scrubbed and ready to be returned. As if to remind us of the joys of Camper van living, the rain fell out of the sky making our last night a sleepless one. With over 4000 kilometres behind us and just 24 km ahead, we were excited to be hitting the big city at last and were looking forward to sleeping in a proper bed that had been so generously offered by an old school friend M & his wife E. 

Someone's knocking at the door, somebody's ringing the bell...

After 9 days of travelling inland we were heading back to the coast and the sky was a beautiful blue as if to confirm this was a good decision. First stop Port Macquire  or Port as it's known – where we parked up & strolled along the seafront, lined with rocks people have decorated with messages, memories and memorials, but it we needed to get on. We drove along Ocean Drive, stopping  along the way to admire the beaches and the views before we found a campsite in a small town called Harrington. The site had great reviews &  great facilities but as we got out of the van  I was stopped in my tracks. A HUGE lizard (goanna) about 4 feet long head to toe. It saw us & sauntered off. I told the lady on reception and her response was not what I wanted to hear. “Yes” laughing loudly  “we have lots of those…and snakes”! Why would you say that? To me of all people. I hesitated. Could I stay here with these prehistoric monsters roaming freely? We were hungry &  in need of a rest so we stayed, but I was on high alert. Thankfully there was only 2 other sightings which,  Mr L assured me was the same lizard just moving around. We had a lovely afternoon walking  along a vast expanse of pure white sand to the ocean just at the back of the campsite &, after Bob & Glynis 2 Aussie grey nomads as they call them here,  camped next to us, showed us around there tent/truck set up we were tucked up in bed by 9pm. Life on the edge. 
The following morning we continued heading down towards Sydney &, whilst looking on our campsite apps for suitable sites we found one in Booti Booti National Park – we had to stay there! As we checked in I asked if they had any Lizards & the response was “not really”. Liar!! Within 30 minutes we had seen 6 – 2 of which strolled off together and walked into the ladies toilet/shower block & another  came out of the woods not far from where I was sorting lunch. It was too much for me – I went off in search of a new camping spot. When I returned to the van Mr L was inside with the sliding door open & a v large lizard was right by the door. As Mr L leaned out to talk to it (he likes them!) it strolled under the van. We moved immediately to another spot with no shade but a long way from lizard forest! 
Rather predictably, after lunch we walked along the beach at the back of the site for miles then sat among the dunes and watched the waves & lay in the sunshine. We spent the evening with a Dutch couple camped near us, talking & admiring the hills & views around us.Up the next morning I showered with one eye on the bottom of the door, just in case the lizards decided to pay a visit (they didn't) then we were back in the Camper continuing south. 
Our final destination in the van was a Sydney but on the way there I wanted to go to a small town call Noraville. Why? Two reasons; 1.my mum & her friend Moy went there to see my dad's sister & 2. I may still  have relatives there. We found a lovely campsite, completely lizard free, where our pitch was under the shade of two trees with a beautiful lake behind us so we could, and did,  watch the stunning sunset reflecting shades of purple & blue over the water. Perfect. We also discovered that our visit to the campsite coincided with the hot rod enthusiasts annual meet so the park was full of incredible cars . We spent the afternoon washing and grooming. Mr L trimmed his beard & I tackled my hair.   It was so unruly I had finally purchased a travel hairdryer that morning  and ( my hairdresser will go mad if she reads this) Mr L trimmed my hair with some nail scissors. It had to be done. We had to look in someway presentable. 

So the following day, armed with information from my mums old address book  we went in search of a cousin I had never met. I wasn't really sure if this was a good idea. I could have tried the phone number but decided to take the full on approach. We found the address and Mr L parked up whilst I walked up the driveway,  climbed the stairs to the first floor veranda that led me to the porch door, I rang the bell and waited. A moment later a man appeared. 

Red light spells danger

The following day we said goodbye to Glen Innes – a town that was way too exciting for us, & headed to Armidale, a sedate, demur city ( city because it has not 1 but 2 cathedrals) & clearly a place for the ‘well to do’. We weren't really sure where to go from here & the lady in the tourist information didn't help us resolve that. However a chance encounter with a man in the car park outside  gave us some great ideas locally & further afield. Good timing as the rain had just arrived. We set off along Waterfall Way where we kept ahead of the rain for most of the 40km but the dark sky made the landscape look quite sinister. Much of the road was windy & uphill but there was v little traffic so we ambled along. We turned off the highway into the New England National Park & followed a gravel road for another 10k or so up to the top. Mr L was sceptical about the promised views as it did not feel as if we had climbed that high. How wrong he was. There before laid out before us were hills and mountain ranges with an approx 160 degree panoramic view. Much of them were coated in a layer of cloud but still visible. It was stunning, but v windy & the rain was definitely about to arrive. We drove back down about 3k to the campsite which was in a heavily wooded area with only 1 other couple camping there. We quickly fashioned an awning off the side of the van just as the rain arrived & cooked dinner, which we ate with one of us holding onto the tarpaulin & the other draining the big pools of water that were gathering in it. By 7pm we were sat in the van stuffing tissues into a gap to stop the drips that were getting in through the sliding door. Who doesn't love camping?!
The following morning, after a freezing cold night,  we went back up to the lookout point – which, for those interested, is at an altitude of 1563m -   & the view was incredible . The morning sky was clear and blue & it looked like you could see forever. It was so peaceful & still and there was just us there to see it. These special moments make you forget the rain & cold. A few kilometres on we spotted a sign for Wollomombi  falls – only 3 km off the highway so we took the detour. No real expectations so we were stunned by the sight of a massive Gorge where the land looked like it had been ripped apart leaving this gaping wound, with water pouring off the edge. This place is full of surprises and many are barely mentioned on the map.
We headed back towards Armidale then onto the Oxley Highway to Walcha, where we needed to decide which road to take - inland or back towards the coast. We opted for the Oxley Highway towards the coast where we spotted another signpost which directed us to Apsley Falls and yet more stunning views which we shared just with each other. 
A few km further on, with hardly any other traffic & no town for about 80km,  I noticed the red  engine light had come on. I stopped immediately and had flash backs of my childhood where something similar seemed to happen to dad’s car regularly  & it was never good news.  Don't let us down now Hippee Camper. I'm sorry we haven't given you a pet name or that we have been quick to deny we were hippies when asked on numerous occasions by people.  Just be alright. Mr L checked things under the engine  located under the passenger seat. There was nothing to prop the seat up with so Mr L used the bit of tree we have been carrying around in the van for such a task. All seemed ok. After several attempts I got through to the helpline. I explained the situation, provided details as requested. When I told him it was a Hippee Camper his response changed “ oh, don't worry about that old thing it's probably a faulty light or something. Just keep driving and if it stops give us a call”. Ok. So, with considerable trepidation I drove, slowly, willing it to keep going. I kept looking for good places to pull over if we did breakdown. Then the road started to weave and bend and twist and turn for miles and miles as we came down from the plateau, all I could think about was what if we breakdown here! . The red light stayed on but still the van kept going. Nearly 3 hrs later we reached our stop for the night in a town called Wauchop.  As I pulled onto the site and straightened up the red light went out. All was well. For the van that is. I was exhausted!  

Saturday nights alright for fighting

Once we had negotiated the labyrinth of road tunnels that go under Brisbane, we were on the New England highway heading inland, well away from the coast road, surrounded by beautiful rolling hills, with views willingly offered up by the Great Dividing Range. Even the sky seemed to have grown.   It felt like we had begun a new road trip. Our first stop was Warwick – as always we were reliant on the tourist information centre to provide us with answers & we weren't disappointed. We walked around the town which, like many we have visited still retains the original hotels & shop fronts from when the town was built. It was quite busy but felt very ‘local’. This was confirmed when I overheard an elderly man saying “I don't know where all these people have come from but they aren't Warwick!”. 
We were heading to a national park but it had been a busy few days so we decided to stop off at a campsite along the way and recharge ourselves so we could do some hiking when we got there. It was the worst campsite we had been on. Not because all the backpackers who were staying there whilst fruit picking at nearby farms, but because it was dirty & neglected. They had their own water source that was the worst colour I have ever seen. Our friends B&J,  who live in deepest Yorkshire, & whose water comes from a stream, is like pure spring water compared to this. It was dark brown. I had no intention of putting any of my parts in that. Thankfully the Girraween National Park was a complete contrast in a beautiful & tranquil setting on a site that was barely half full & clean refreshing hot showers (for 4 minutes) A real bonus was the visitors centre had free wifi 24/7. I didn't want to leave! 

All across this vast area there are huge rocks, some randomly balancing on others to create ‘castles’ or ‘pyramids’.  We followed one of the small 2-3k trails when we got there & the following day we did a much longer hike up into the hills with great views. We pretty much had the place to ourselves up there which was lovely. In the evening more than a dozen kangaroos appeared to feed on the grass near to our camper van which was so nice to watch. On the second night we were invited to join some ex pat campers  & their friends for drinks. It was a pleasant relaxing  evening  sharing stories & drinking wine until the arrival of the rain sent everyone off to their beds. 

Back on the road the next day I was struggling to pick up a radio station until we hit a small town called Tenterfield,  where the local radio DJ, an elderly lady by the sound of her voice told of a very sad tragedy in the town where 3 people from the same family had died cleaning out a storage tank. She was so emotional about it - & then in the same breath announced the next song – “here's Elton John singing Saturday nights alright for fighting” !!!

We arrived in Glen Innes – a town famous for its Celtic standing stones – described to us as Australia’s equivalent of Stonehenge. No. It most definitely was not,  but it was a nice park with some nice stone sculptures. Our campsite was just a few minutes from downtown so got showered ,’dolled up’  & headed into town. First stop the RSL services club – Similar to the British Legion. We got signed in & were delighted that drinks were ‘club’ prices - $7 for a schooner of beer & mini bottle of fizz. 
It was an entertaining evening where 4 interesting things happened: 1. we ran into the governor of New South Wales, 2. we witnessed our first bar room brawl, 3.we were rescued from a huge downpour by a kind bus driver & 4. one of our camping chairs went missing. This may not sound that exciting to you but we haven't been out on a Saturday night for some time so it was quite a treat for us. I'm guessing you might want more details so in summary the governor and his wife were attending a reception at the RSL club, the main perpetrator of the fight got a three month ban from the bar, the bus driver went off his route to drop us at the campsite to save us getting wet and the camping chair turned up safe & well the following day. 

If you're fond of sand dunes & salty air....

A number of people had told us we must visit Fraser Island so when we arrived in Hervey Bay, we booked a trip not actually knowing what was there or why we must see it. We drove to the meeting point early  & were picked up in a 17-seater 4X4 bus by our driver & guide Hans – German born obviously- he had been an Aussie for 25yrs which had created the oddest hybrid accent. There were only 8 of us on the day trip, 2 young Germans & 4 Swiss. We drove to the ferry port & after a 55min crossing we were on the Island. The first thing we discovered about the Island is that it's a huge sand dune. In fact it's the largest sand island in the world. The initial 250 meters of road were tarmac & after that it was a well used & well worn track of deep compacted soft sand, wide enough for one vehicle, which weaved up and down  the island through the woodland & rain forest,  so the 4X4 was essential. The ride was something people would pay good money to experience at a theme park. Getting traction even for a 4WD was a challenge. Despite having our seat belts on we were rocked and swung from side to side & at times thrown so high we were out of our seats & our feet thrown up off the ground. The Swiss contingent of Harley Davidson bikers, according to their tee shirts, tattoos & piercings, loved it & their hysterical laughter was contagious as they bounced up & down even higher on the back seat. 

Our first stop was Lake McKenzie, where the sand was pure white & the fresh water was vivid blue. Beautiful & definitely made the shaky journey worthwhile. What made it for Mr L was that it was warm – as warm as his bath was his description which made him v happy. We swam out to a small island & back to the beach before getting back on the bus & heading to a shaded area for lunch & a short walk along a trail. In the afternoon we drove to 75 mile beach.  I have no idea if it is that long but we drove along it for about 10km, with Hans making sure to avoid the small plane that took off from the beach. We made a few stops to examine an old shipwreck & the coloured sands – which Mr L observed were no where near as impressive as the Isle of Wight! We even had our first dingo sighting as it strolled casually along the beach.  We were relieved  that at last the sun had shone on one of our  island trips; in fact it was the hottest weekend so far with temperatures in excess of 40 degrees on the beach. We were really pleased that we had taken people's  advice & gone on the trip – a place definitely worth seeing & experiencing. 

Back on the mainland we recovered the Hippee Camper from the car park (surprisingly noone had stolen it) & got back on the road. We had got back later than anticipated & the sun was going down. we had been advised not to drive at dusk because of the risk of Kangaroos on the road but we needed to get on. Thankfully it was fine & We had no kangaroo encounters.  An hour & a half later we were at our spot for the night - a free camping site located in a car park at the back of a Puma petrol station, just off the highway. Living the high life! 

After a surprisingly good nights sleep & clean toilets we were back on the road – destination Brisbane. Our first big city since we landed in Australia. Our friend B, had kindly offered for us to stay with his parents, who we had never met at their house in the suburbs of Brisbane. Thankfully they were v welcoming & we spent a lovely few days with them, sleeping in a proper bed & with a bathroom to ourselves. We had a great guided tour of the city & the local area, taking in a few bars & had 2 lovely evenings chatting over tasty food & great wine. It was so nice of J and P to extend such a warm welcome. We also got some great tips on the next leg of our journey. We had loved the coast road but it was time for a change. We decided to leave the Bruce highway behind  and move inland to the New England highway and The Great Dividing Range.